GENEVA — When AkriviA was announced as the Men’s Watch winner at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in November, most of the audience members probably knew little more than the name of the six-year-old brand.
Some fans, however, cheered loudly as its founder, Rexhep Rexhepi (pronounced RAY-jep RAY-jepee), made his way to the stage to collect the prize for his Chronomètre Contemporain.
“You seem to be very popular, sir,” said Édouard Baer, the event’s master of ceremonies, with a hint of surprise that AkriviA won over a roster of established brands that included Vacheron Constantin, MB&F and Kari Voutilainen.
Mr. Rexhepi may not have a household name but, at 31, he is a clear front-runner in a new generation of fine watchmakers rising to prominence on the strength of their talent and commitment to traditional craftsmanship.
“This watch took many things coming together over many years to become a reality,” Mr. Rexhepi said in his acceptance speech.
The back story reflects his personal hardship and his dedication to the field. Born in 1987 in Zheger, Kosovo, Mr. Rexhepi left the war-torn country in 1999 for Switzerland. He entered an apprenticeship program at Patek Philippe, and later worked for BNB Concept, a specialist movement manufacturer, and the celebrated independent Swiss watchmaker François-Paul Journe.
In 2012, on his 25th birthday, Mr. Rexhepi opened his own workshop in Geneva’s Old Town area, using 100,000 Swiss francs in savings. At first, he produced mostly prototypes for other brands; in 2015, he began focusing on developing AkriviA. The name of the brand, which he had registered as a business three years earlier, is taken from the Greek word for precision.
AkriviA now employs six watchmakers, including Mr. Rexhepi’s younger brother — who joined AkriviA after a stint at Patek Philippe — and produces about 30 timepieces a year.
“There are no production lines in our workshop,” Mr. Rexhepi said in an interview. “For us, the same watchmaker must make the watch from beginning to end, like in the old days.”
In an age of robotics and A.I., Mr. Rexhepi’s vision is to produce creative mechanisms made entirely by hand and inspired as much by the classicism of the 18th-century horological pioneer Abraham-Louis Breguet as by the modernity of Mr. Journe.
“High-quality hand finishing and visual identity are very important because we want our style to be recognizable,” Mr. Rexhepi said. “That is why everything in our watches, including the movement, is symmetrical, which obviously adds in complexity but brings aesthetics in line with technique.”
His Chronomètre Contemporain, an understated timepiece, reflected both a contemporary style and a classical symmetry in its grand feu enameled dial and the architecture of its in-house movement. It was finished entirely by hand, using the traditional techniques of anglage, or beveling, and the decorative motif Côtes de Genève, or Geneva stripes.
“We defend traditional values that are getting lost today,” he said. “We may be young but we rely on tradition to move forward.”
Many new watchmakers come on the scene but, at the rarefied top end, “the world of watchmaking remains mainly European and largely masculine,” said Oliver Müller, a luxury consultant who is advising Mr. Rexhepi in developing his brand. “There are many talents around the world, including Masahiro Kikuno in Japan, or Lin Yong Hua in China, but the reality is that to get on the radar, it helps to be based in Western Europe today, where there is a known tradition of watch craftsmanship.”
So the success of a young watchmaker like Mr. Rexhepi is undoubtedly inspiring to other promising talents, like Rémy Cools, who was in the audience at the awards event in November and who was wearing his own montre école, or school watch, the timepiece he had made to graduate from Lycée Edgar Faure, a well-regarded watchmaking school in Morteau, France, near the Swiss border.
“I tried to bring a touch of modernity to the hand-finishing,” Mr. Cools said. “For me, that means respecting the essential values of watchmaking.”
Industry support is crucial to finding and encouraging young talents, a mission that Mr. Journe has taken to heart since 2015 with the Young Talent Competition. “We look for that talented ugly duckling that is going to turn into a swan,” Mr. Journe said. “Young watchmakers often start with an ‘homage’ watch, which is another word for ‘copy.’ To find their own path, they must develop independence, not just in their research but also in their character.”
For his handmade timepiece, called Eccentricity, Cyril Brivet-Naudot designed an energy-efficient escapement that he said was inspired by the work of a little-known 19th-century watchmaker named Louis Richard. He already has had orders for the watch from collectors who saw it in June at the Watchfair Luxembourg and in November at the Salon QP fair in London.
“This region is untouched by horology, so I can be free to do my own research and be more creative,” he said.
A scientist at heart, with a degree from the École Polytechnique Fédérale of Lausanne, a prestigious Swiss institute of technology, Mr. Brivet-Naudot nevertheless has been dedicated to hand craftsmanship. “I am passionate about the kind of traditional watchmaking that was practiced in the early 20th century,” he said. “Handmade work is what gives soul to the watch, not the cold imprint of machines.”
Before producing a complete watch, creating a handmade component can be a daunting challenge for an aspiring watchmaker.
Still, Antonin Falk, who will turn 20 in August, was recognized as a Meilleur Apprenti de France, or Best Apprentice of France, in a national contest. His winning work was a 30-millimeter-long steel minute hand with a hollowed-out apple-shaped end, a rendering of the traditional watch element known as a Breguet Hand.
“This tiny hand took me 100 hours to make,” Mr. Falk said in a phone interview from his hometown, Albertville, in southeast France. “It satisfied all the requisite specifications and tolerances, plus it was perfectly finished and beautiful.”
Mr. Falk has since made a complete watch with a jumping-hours complication and retrograde minutes, a timepiece that earned him praise from Gregory Pons, a respected industry observer who referred to Mr. Falk as a “potential heir to the watchmaking stars of today” in his widely read Business Montres & Joaillerie newsletter.
For Mr. Falk, who has three more years before graduating from the watchmaking school in Morteau, the road ahead may be long but he has a solid head start.
“For my graduation timepiece, I will likely make a tourbillon,” Mr. Falk said. “It is not the most difficult complication to make, but it is so pretty to watch.”B:
2014跑狗报新浪博客【湖】【面】【虽】【然】【不】【高】，【但】【足】【够】【将】【沈】【明】【月】【淹】【没】。 【沈】【明】【月】【连】【喝】【了】【好】【几】【口】【水】，【面】【色】【有】【些】【苍】【白】。 【顾】【桥】【将】【她】【抱】【在】【怀】【里】，“【老】【婆】，【没】【事】【了】！” 【他】【一】【边】【安】【慰】【着】【沈】【明】【月】，【一】【边】【往】【岸】【上】【游】【去】。 【他】【看】【着】【她】【紧】【蹙】【眉】【的】【模】【样】，“【怎】【么】【样】？【有】【没】【有】【哪】【里】【不】【好】，【告】【诉】【我】。” 【沈】【明】【月】【确】【实】【是】【不】【太】【好】，【她】【将】【双】【手】【放】【在】【肚】【子】【上】，【面】【色】【实】【在】【是】【有】【些】
【而】【站】【在】【身】【后】【不】【远】【处】【的】【几】【个】【人】【似】【乎】【也】【是】【发】【现】【了】【这】【个】【问】【题】，【紧】【跟】【着】【就】【要】【攻】【过】【来】【了】。 【苏】【清】【清】【刚】【一】【避】【开】，【以】【为】【对】【方】【是】【冲】【着】【自】【己】【来】【的】。 【可】【是】【事】【情】【好】【像】【不】【是】【她】【想】【像】【的】【那】【么】【简】【单】。 【那】【个】【人】【虽】【然】【知】【道】【苏】【清】【已】【经】【多】【开】【了】，【但】【是】【并】【没】【有】【改】【变】【自】【己】【剑】【锋】【的】【方】【向】，【反】【而】【还】【是】【直】【直】【的】【朝】【着】【东】【方】【栎】【刺】【了】【过】【来】。 【苏】【清】【清】【第】【一】【时】【间】【反】【应】【过】【来】
【在】【赵】【集】【的】【有】【意】【促】【成】【之】【下】，【宴】【会】【的】【数】【目】【也】【比】【前】【朝】【多】。 【如】【果】【不】【是】【因】【为】【皇】【上】【这】【个】【身】【份】【在】，【他】【还】【需】【要】【花】【费】【不】【少】【精】【力】【在】【朝】【堂】【国】【事】【之】【上】，【只】【怕】【赵】【集】【就】【是】【个】【整】【日】【沉】【迷】【享】【乐】【的】【闲】【散】【王】【爷】【了】。 【摸】【清】【皇】【上】【的】【喜】【好】【之】【后】，【易】【葭】【衣】【不】【过】【是】【用】【了】【个】【新】【鲜】【的】【招】【式】【投】【其】【所】【好】。 【既】【可】【以】【规】【避】【自】【己】【的】【缺】【点】，【还】【能】【遮】【掩】【她】【画】【风】【的】【差】【异】。 【赵】【集】【今】【年】2014跑狗报新浪博客【另】【一】【边】，【前】【进】【中】【的】【江】【城】【很】【快】【就】【发】【现】【了】【先】【锋】【部】【队】，【看】【着】【水】【面】【上】【密】【密】【麻】【麻】【的】【装】【甲】【车】【辆】，【江】【城】【顿】【脸】【色】【凝】【重】，【那】【些】【狰】【狞】【的】【炮】【口】，【可】【不】【是】【他】【这】【个】【小】【船】【可】【以】【抵】【抗】【的】。 “【还】【真】【是】【麻】【烦】，【这】【么】【多】【的】【装】【甲】【车】，【可】【不】【好】【对】【付】【啊】！”【江】【城】【心】【里】【思】【索】【着】【对】【策】，【对】【方】【已】【经】【把】【前】【方】【的】【路】【都】【给】【堵】【住】【了】，【他】【要】【想】【过】【去】，【非】【得】【闯】【过】【去】【不】【可】，【问】【题】【就】【是】【他】【在】【水】
【周】【昼】【挑】【了】【挑】【眉】，【不】【理】【睬】，【对】【于】【这】【种】【两】【面】【三】【刀】【的】【人】，【她】【可】【没】【心】【情】【去】【理】【会】。 “【此】【书】【文】【笔】【不】【足】，【谈】【不】【上】【是】【一】【本】【好】【书】。”【她】【自】【顾】【自】【翻】【了】【翻】，【又】【合】【上】。 “【小】【女】【想】【要】【这】【本】【书】..【全】【是】【因】【为】【对】【律】【法】【颇】【感】【兴】【趣】。” “【小】【女】【唐】【突】.【想】【问】【公】【子】【为】【何】【如】【此】【想】【要】【这】【本】【书】？” 【周】【昼】【拉】【长】【尾】【音】，【拨】【弄】【了】【下】【散】【落】【在】【衣】【襟】【处】【的】
“【起】【来】【吧】，【别】【动】【不】【动】【就】【跪】【着】。【多】【大】【年】【纪】【还】【不】【爱】【惜】【自】【己】【的】【身】【体】，【本】【王】【可】【不】【希】【望】【到】【你】【出】【嫁】【那】【天】【有】【个】【小】【病】【小】【痛】【的】，【本】【王】【可】【没】【法】【跟】【新】【郎】【官】【交】【代】【哦】。”【慕】【容】【忆】【慈】【的】【脸】【上】【勾】【起】【一】【个】【弯】【弯】【的】【笑】【容】，【悠】【然】【的】【娇】【羞】【已】【经】【很】【明】【白】【地】【告】【诉】【了】【她】，【她】【愿】【意】。 【所】【以】，【她】【对】【悠】【然】【的】【心】【也】【算】【是】【有】【个】【交】【代】【了】。 【这】【会】【子】【燕】【窝】【也】【冷】【得】【差】【不】【多】【了】，【慕】【容】【忆】【慈】
“【你】【竟】【然】【要】【赶】【我】【走】，【你】【有】【没】【有】【良】【心】？【你】【知】【不】【知】【道】【当】【初】【是】【我】【带】【你】【回】【的】【我】【的】【家】【族】，【如】【果】【没】【有】【我】【的】【家】【族】【的】【话】，【你】【连】【参】【加】【这】【次】【秘】【境】【的】【资】【格】【都】【没】【有】？” 【女】【子】【的】【声】【音】【更】【加】【的】【刻】【薄】【了】【起】【来】。 【楚】【天】【凰】【听】【着】【都】【是】【忍】【不】【住】【想】【要】【笑】【了】，【本】【身】【自】【己】【没】【有】【理】【却】【还】【是】【把】【事】【情】【说】【的】【这】【么】【理】【直】【气】【壮】，【也】【简】【直】【了】。 【不】【过】，【来】【的】【人】【是】【丁】【家】【的】【人】【吗】？【楚】
“【祝】【锦】，【对】【吗】？” 【李】【子】【清】【没】【有】【点】【头】，【也】【没】【有】【摇】【头】。 “【我】【和】【祝】【锦】【虽】【然】【是】【很】【好】【的】【朋】【友】，【但】【我】【们】【有】【两】【套】【非】【常】【不】【一】【样】【的】【价】【值】【观】。【我】【不】【认】【同】【祝】【锦】【的】【交】【友】【准】【则】【和】【观】【念】，【可】【我】【也】【不】【会】【因】【为】【韩】【博】【有】【社】【交】【恐】【惧】【症】【去】【干】【涉】【他】【们】。【感】【情】【没】【有】【对】【错】，【由】【不】【得】【别】【人】【批】【判】。” 【有】【社】【恐】，【不】【代】【表】【就】【需】【要】【被】【小】【心】【翼】【翼】【的】【呵】【护】。【最】【多】【只】【能】【提】【点】【两】【句】